Zusammenfassung der Ressource
Textiles (1)
- Fibres
- Long fibres
- These are called
filament fibres
- They are smooth
- Short Fibres
- These are called
staples
- They are hairy when
spun into yarn
- Natural Fibres
- Come from animals
- E.g wool or silk
- Come from plants
- E.g cotton, linen or hemp
- Man made fibres
- These are called synthetics
- They are made from polymers, extracted
from coal and oil.
- Some synthetic fibres are
polyester, nylon or acrylic
- Regenerated fibres
- regenerated fibre is fibre that is
produced from raw materials that
form fibres naturally.
- E.g wool pulp or cotten linter
- Fibres are woven, kitted, felted or
bonded into fabrics
- Woven Fabrics
- Yarn strength: warp
yarns are stronger
compared to weft
- Selvedge is
where the fabric
is double-back to
prevent fraying
- Properties of fabrics
- Cotton
- Cool to wear
- Very absorbent /
dries slowly
- Soft handle
- Good drape
- Durable
- Creases easily
- Can be washed and
ironed
- E.g jeans, t-shirts
and towels
- Linen
- Fresh and cool to wear
- Very absorbent /
dries slowly
- Stiffer handle
- Good drape
- Durable
- Creases badly
- Can be washed and
ironed
- E.g summer clothing, tea
towels and table clothes
- Wool
- Warm to wear
- Absorbent / dries slowly
- Breathable / repels rain
- Soft or coarse to handle
- Can shrink, should be dry cleaned
- Good drape
- Not durable
- Creases drop out
- E.g jumpers, suits and
blankets
- Silk
- Warm to wear
- Absorbent
- Soft handle
- Good lustre and drape
- Durable
- Creases drop out
- Dry clean
- E.g evening wear and ties
- Polyester
- E.g raincoats, fleece jackets,
children's nightwear,
medical textiles and working
clothes
- Low warmth
- Non-absorbent, dries quickly
- Soft handle
- Good drape
- Easy care
- very durable
- Crease resistant
- Can be recycled
- Care Labels
- What to include on a care label
- Fibre content
(50% cotton
50% lycra)
- Product details (size,
type, style)
- Country of origin
(made in chine)
- which
standards
the
products
meet
(faitrade)
- Safety advice
(keep away
from fire)
- Care
instructions
(how its
washed,
dried,
ironed etc)
- Fabric finishes
- Physical finishes
- Brushing
- Wire rollers brush the
surface of the fabric
- Fabric has a
napped (raised)
surface and
handle is softer)
- Embossing
- Engraved rollers create
relief pattern on the fabric
- Texture and
appearance change to
the pattern of
embossing
- Calendering
- Heavy rollers press the surface
of the fabric
- Fabric is smoother and
has improved sheen
- Pressing
- Presses
smooth the
surface of
the fabric
- There is
improved handle
and a smoother
surface. Pressing
is often on wool
fabrics
- Shrinkage
- Fabric is steamed and
placed over a vibrating
conveyor belt
- This reduces further
shrinkage later (in use
and care)
- Permanent creases
- Fabric is moistened with
steam, then dried with
powerful drier's while
pressure is applied
- Puts a permanent crease in centre front and
centre back of trouser legs. Handle of fabric is
not affected and ironing is easier
- Chemical finishes
- Water repellent
- Silicone is
sprayed onto the
fabric surface
- Droplets of water remain
on the surface; air can pass
through. This is not
waterproofing and fabric
will let water through if
saturated
- Stain resistant
- Stain-resistant resins are
applied to the surface of
the fabric (e.g. Teflon)
- Dirt is prevented
from clinging to the
surface
- Crease resistant
- Resins are
applied to the
fabric
- Fabric are crisper but
crease less
- Flame Resistant
- Chemicals are
applied to yarn and
fabric
- This prevents fabrics
from easily igniting
- Shrink Resistant
- Fibre scales (found on wool)
are removed with chlorine,
or resins block the scales.
- Shrinkage in washing is
reduced; used in wool products
- Anti-Allergen
- Chemicals such as Chitosan are
applied to the fibre or fabric
- Reduces irritant from the fibres and doesn't
change the appearance or handle of the
fabric.
- Decorative techniques
- Dying
- Tie dye
- Tritik
- Batik
- Saturation
- Fabric paints, crayons
- Appliqué
- Printing
- Block
- Stencils
- Screen
- Sublimation
- Iron transfers
- Machine and hand embroidery
- Components
- Buttons
- Sequins and beads
- Decorative trims
- Fringe and tassels
- Lace trims
- Metal components
- Zips
- Seams and Hems
- French seam are used
for delicate fabrics like
underwear
- Flat-Felled seam used on jeans
or trousers to make the seam
stronger
- Plain or open seam used for
prototypes as its easy to
unpick
- Tuned hem which is
visible on the outside
of the garment
- Blind hem is invisible an can be
hand sewn or machine stitched.
- Ways of neatening a seam
- Binding
- Pinking shears
- Over locker or
zig-zag stitch
- Turned edges
- Blanket stitch
- Construction Techniques
- Darts
- A way of
shaping a
fabric to the
contours of
the body
- Box Pleat
- Fabric is
turned in
on itself.
Used to add
value
- Knife Pleat
- Fabric is folded in
the same direction
- Gather
- Used to add volume
and shape the
garment
- Tacking Stitch
- Used to hold two pieces
together temporarily. Use a
contrasting thread
- Interfacing
- Stiffen fabric, such
as the interfacing
used in shirt collars
- Strengthen a certain
area of the fabric, for
instance where
buttonholes will be
seen
- Keep fabrics from
stretching out of
shape.
- Prototype
- Definition = a prototype of
toile is a mock up of a
product.
- It is usually produced from a
cheap fabric such as calico
(canvas). this will develop form
your design ideas and
specification. you will make a
prototype at full scale before
you make the final product.
- How can you test a prototype?
- Try it on
- Safety Testing
- Test the products
care e.g washing
the component
- Checking it
against the
specification
- Why would you test a prototype?
- To check the
manufacturing
process
- Size testing
- Testing fitness
for purpose
- Obtaining customer
feedback
- What faults could you find out
from testing your prototype?
- Incorrect size
or shape
- Incorrect
seam
allowance
- Faulty stitching
- Accidental
damage - this
could be from the
machinery
- What is quality assurance/control?
- Quality assurance is all the
steps put in place through
design and manufacture to
ensure your product is the
best that it can be
- How to write a specification
- ACCESS FM
- A - aesthetics (meaning appearance)
- C - cost (meaning price range)
- C - customer (meaning the person who
wants to buy it)
- E - environment (meaning where
it is used and how eco-friendly it
is)
- S - safety (meaning how
safe it is)
- S - size (meaning how
big it is)
- F - function
(meaning what
job it does)
- M - materials
(meaning what
materials would you
need to make it)
- Aesthetics,
cost,
customer,
environment,
safety, size,
function and
materials
- Production methods
- One-off production
- In one-off production a single
product is designed and made to a
client's specification. Labour and
materials costs are high, and a high
level of design and manufacturing
skills are needed. E.g a wedding dress
- Off the peg
- A ready made garment in
standard sizes. One
standard size template
- Sub assembly
- A pre made
collection of
parts
- Consistent
quality,
may be
fewer
faults
- Speeds up
production
process
- Specialist machinery
and specially trained
machinists can be used
in certain stages
- Can be bought in
- May be on a
separate line of
manufacture that
feeds into the
main production.
- Batch Production
- In batch production set qualities of a product are
manufactured to order. Batch production
requires a high level of design, pattern making
and sampling skills. materials are cost-effective
and manufacturing costs are lower than one-off
production. Garments are designed to fit a range
of standard sizes and shapes. the quantity varies
from a set of four cushions made by a
designer/maker to 20,000 jumpers made for a
department store.
- Mass Production
- Mass production is the industrial-scale
manufacture of large quantities of
products, usually on a production line.
Standardised production methods mean it
is suitable for products that rarely need
to be redesigned. Mass production is used
for products that are needed in very large
numbers, E.g socks
- Ethical Textiles
- Fair trade
- A consumer label that
guarantees a stable
price for products and
a fair wage for
workers in less
developed countries.
- Ethical trade
- The buying and
selling of goods and
services from
businesses that are
morally and socially
responsible
- Life cycle analysis
- Looking at all the stages in
the life of a product in order to
find out information about
how it is made, used and
disposed of.
- Landfill site
- A large excavated area
where rubbish is dumped,
and then covered with
earth once full.
- Sustainability
- Why should we use sustainable design?
- A better quality of life for us all
- Cleaner environment
- Waste less
- Pollute less
- Create fun ideas and
products for society
- Looking
after our
planet
- Re = THINKING
- Concerns
for Global
Climate
Change
- The 6 R's
- Repair
- When a product
breaks down or
doesn't work
properly try to fix it.
- Reuse
- Use a product to make
something else with all or
parts of old products
- Rethink
- Do we make too many
products? Design in a way that
considers people and the
environment
- Reduce
- Cut down the
amount of material
and energy you use as
much as you can
- Refuse
- Don't use a material or
buy a product if you
don't need it or if it is
bad for the
environment or people
- Recycle
- Reprocess a product or
material to make
something else
- Environment issues
- We use
energy in
everything
we do
- The product of textile
products adds to pollution
in manufacture,
distribution and use
- Energy used in
making textile
products creates CO"
and contributes to
global warming.
- Global warming
- When we
burn fossil
fuels (coal,
oil, gas,
petrol and
diesel),
carbon
dioxide is
released.
- This carbon dioxide
traps the sun's heat in
the atmosphere
leading to an increase
in temperatures
- The more products we
want, the more energy we
use to produce and
transport them. So we
produce more CO".
- It has been
calculated that if
everyone on
earth lived the
lifestyle of
people in
developed
nations then we
would need at
least 3 planets to
meet our needs.
- What has this got to do with textiles?
- The desire to be 'in
fashion' creates a vast
market for new
products. People buy
new clothes because
they want them, not
because they really
need them. in
developing countries we
only actually wear
about 20% of the
clothes we own, the
rest remain at the back
of our wardrobes
- 70% of the world's
population has no access
to new clothing
- New products use up
huge resources of raw
materials and energy
in their design,
manufacture,
distribution, sale and
use.
- The manufacturing of
synthetic fibres such as
polyester and nylon uses
up oil and creates toxic
pollutants
- Cleaning fibres, dyeing,
bleaching and finishing
fabrics requires vast
quantities of water and
energy and often
causes pollution from
chemicals used.
- Transporting raw materials and
components to factories, and finished
goods to shops, adds to global warming
through the CO" emissions of vehicles
- How can you help?
- Wash at 30c to reduce energy requirements
and CO" emissions. Doing this could help
prevent the effect of global warming.
- Why not fur?
- Cruel to animals
- Threat to
endangered species
- Unethical
- Interruption of
natural foo
chain
- Animal rights
- Opposition to
hunting
- CAD & CAM
- CAM
- Machines and processes
that are controlled and
programmed by
computers to do a whole
range of product
processes.
- Advantages
- The
results
are
consistent
(always
the same)
- Enables very high
accuracy levels.
- Speeds up
production
of
products
- Complicated
shapes can be
cut more
easily by
machine than
by hand
- Quick
changes/modifications
- Disadvantages
- The
software
itself is
expensive
so initial
costs are
high.
- Staff need to be trained
how to use the software
and machinery, which adds
to costs.
- Can be complicated -
scared of ICT!
- CAD
- There are systems for creating,
modifying and communicating ideas
for a product.
- It includes the computer
aided design of the pattern
pieces and lay plan for a
product too.
- Laser Cutter
- Used
lots in
schools
- Accurate and
detailed designs
- Can be used to cut -
sheet plastic, wood,
fabric, metals and
paper
- Quick
designed and
prototyping