Zusammenfassung der Ressource
features of waves
- two different types of waves
- constructive waves
- features:
- greater swash
- small in height
- low flat waves spill over
- push material up the beach
- less energy
- occur on rather gentle beaches
- wave crests are far apart
- weak backwash
- much percolation through sand
- little transport of sand
down the beach
- low wave frequency
- destructive waves
- features:
- stronger backwash
- little percolation through sand
- eroded material deposited
offshore in longshore bars
- weaker swash
- larger in height
- large steep wave plunges over
- more energy
- steep beach
- wave crests close together
- steep wave front
- more likely in storm conditions