1900's-1920's

Nota:

• Around 1916, when the Great Migration began, a factory wage in the urban North was typically three times more than what blacks could expect to make working the land in the rural South  http://www.history.com/topics/black-history/great-migration
• After the war broke out there was a shortage of industrial workers, this provided new jobs for the former feild hands
• By the end of 1919, some 1 million blacks had left the South

Nota:

• The South of the U.S. was more racist than the North -

1. Jim Crow Laws

   Nota:

   • Jim Crow laws & ettiquet operated mainly in the south of America but less severly in the northern states http://www.ferris.edu/jimcrow/what.htm

1. Booker T. Washington
2. W.E.B. DuBois

   Nota:

   • "one simply wishes to make it possible for a man to be both a Negro and an American, without being cursed and spit upon"
3. Marcus Gravey
   1. Universal Negro Improvement Association
      1. Dedicated to racial uplift
   2. Influence
      1. Church
      2. Workers
   3. Encouraged racial pride
      1. Black is beautiful

Nota:

• "a true woman wouldn't give a cent...for bleached skin and straightened hair...superficial nothing..." "If Negro women would use half the time they spend in trying to get white in trying to get better, the race would move forward apace, but the production of more white Negroes, whether home-made or born that way, that does not bring to the race more character and worth, are unwelcomed guests that may be excused at any time"

1. Baptist Organiser + NACW member

1. New rules of black ettiquete

1. Occasionally degrading of black features

   Nota:

   • See sources 29, 12 Madame CJ Walker ad & Crane & Company
2. Alteration, not refinement

1. Madame CJ Walker
   1. First self-made female millionaire
   2. Wonderful hair grower
      1. Provided solutions to common issues
      2. Provided jobs
   3. Racial Uplift

      Nota:

      • "My desire is to do more than ever for my race"
      • "my desire is to do more than ever for my race. I've caught the vision. I have what they need."
      • "I want the great masses of my people to take pride in their appearance."
      1. Appearance was key
2. Ad's focussed on fixable issues - not demonizing black hair

   Nota:

   • "Black women were trying to move away from white definitions that trapped African-American women into language that condemmed black hair as a handicap - something that needed to be altered from its natural state to be attractive and to allow for a normal life as a regular part of society" source 78