Textiles Final

Question	Answer
Direct Dyes	1. Water Soluble 2. Used on cellulosic fibers 3. Medium to low price range 4. Cotton, linen, rayon, wool, silk, nylon and aramid
Vat Dyes	1. Developed in Europe 1910 2. Cost effective 3. Dependable and color fast 4. Like dyeing Easter egg - temperature and time effect final look 5. Cotton, linen, rayon, some manufactured fibers 6. NOT USED FOR WOOL OR SILK
Solution Dyes	Color is added to manufactured fibers before extrusion into filaments, resulting in a tendency to superior colorfastness.
Flat Bed Screen Prints	Large designs on fabrics which are repeated every 7 yards. Automatically moved across print table, screens are fixed and colors applied.
Rotary Screen Prints	Developed in the 60's. Fast and accurate printing process in which the cloth moves under a series of large, patterned cylinders.
Discharge Prints	Pattern is obtained by bleaching portions of already dyed cloth.
Dying vs. Printing	Dying is done at a fiber level while printing is applied to a finished fabric.
Crocking	Rubbing off of color due to improper or insufficient dye penetration or fixation.
Durability	Capacity of a textile to last or endure for a reasonable length of time w/out deterioration or destruction and with minimal loss of appearance.
Maintenance	Ongoing treatment necessary to keep a textile clean.
Dyeing	Done in the polymer solution, fiber, yarn, fabric, or product stage.
Printing	Done at fabric stage or applied to warp threads during weaving.
Abrasion Resistance	Ability of fabric to withstand damage from rubbing and wear. Known as double rubs.
Dimensional Stability	Ability of a textile to maintain its original shape and size. Absorbency, elasticity, elongation, recovery, and construction affect dimensional stability.
Life Cycle Costs	The length of time a textile is used before it wears out; often associated with costing and maintenance.
Casement	General term for curtain and drapery fabrics that have medium weight and some degree of transparency. Operation is horizontal.
Curtain	General term for textile window covering fabric hung without linings. Operation is horizontal.
Drapery	Lined textile fabric panels hung to drape gracefully at windows or over walls and are operated horizontally.
Sagging	Elongation, common to many fabrics and dependent on fiber content and cloth structure.
Hiking	Alternate sagging and shrinking of casement panels due to humidity changes.
Slippage	Sliding of filling threads over ends, or the shifting of warp threads which results in open spaces in the fabric.
Knife-Edge	Crisp corner, slight round. No welt or seem at edge.
Welting/Welt Edge	Cord wrapped in fabric along edge. Welt welt = cord fabric matches upholstery.
Tufting	Buttons, pins added for a pillowing effect. Done from behind, looped and pulled tight.
Boxing	Strip of fabric is combined with a zipper.
Fabric Flame Codes	NFPA 107 CAL 117
Savonnerie or Aubusson Rugs	-Classic designs -Hand carving to give texture -Pile: Fine loop -From: France
Rya Rugs	-Hand knotted wool rugs -Pile: Long, 1"-3" -From Scandinavia -Geometric patterns -Bright colors
Flokati Rugs	-Hand pulled, woven wool rugs which are felted -Pile: long -From Greece -White/light -Undyed wool
Khilim (Kelim, Kilim) Rugs	-Graceful, stylized designs -Natural motifs -Reversible -Pile: non pile -From Eastern Europe -Knotted (no pile)
Navajo, Hopi and Cheyenne Rugs	-Bold graphic symbols -Detailed patterns representing tribal life -Pile: Non pile -From USA -Bright colors -Knotted (no pile)
Dhurrie (Durrie, Durry) Rugs	-Crosswise striations -Stylized design -Pile: Non pile -From India -Bright -Striped & simple
Floor Mats (Walk off rugs)	-Pile: medium -Functional rug -Courser -Installed like carpet -Fabricated like rug -Polyester
Pile Height	Hight of yarn above primary backing, calculated in millimeters.
Rug vs. Carpet	Rugs float and carpets are wall to wall.
Carpet Components	1. Pile fiber 2. Primary backing 3. Secondary backing 4. Adhesive 5. Topical Treatments
Axminster	Commercial carpet. Economical way to produce custom carpets like casino floors. 12'-0" wide
Loop Pile	Surface of continuous loops
Cute Pile	Each loop is cut as part of the production process, and the surface reveals the cut ends of the yarn.
Modular Carpet	-Green alternative -Customizable -Economical -Easily replaced and reinstalled -Low Pile -"Carpet tiles"
Wool Carpet	-Small but stable part of market -Resistant to greasy stains, good abrasion resistance, fuzzing his problem, fire resistant
Nylon Carpet	-Staple or bulked is most popular carpet choice -Good opacity, nice sheen, excellent colorfastness, bulk w/out weight, excellent recovery from crushing.
Radiant Floor Panel Test ASTM E-648	-All materials near exit must pass -Samples are burned and distance is measured, done 3 times.
Carpet Pad	-Residential -Wear needs of carpet -Worry about moisture -Latex barrier
Carpet Installation	1. Tackless strip 2. Glue Down 3. Free lay
Tackless Strip	Secured but easily removed. Carpet is stretched and secured on a strip with 3 rows of pins, located on the perimeter of the room.
Glue Down	Use an adhesive to secure the carpet system.
Free-Lay	Rugs or other large carpets that are not wall to wall applications
Physical Tests (Performance Test Method)	Compliance with specified requirements can best be established with tests that simulate the intended use condition.
Calculation Method (Performance Test Method)	Compliance with requirements can be established by means of graphic and/or numerical calculations, using accepted engineering practice and applicable codes
Observation (Performance Test Method)	Compliance with performance requirements can only be established by observing the textiles under specific conditions. Unanimous decision from at least 3 independent observers.
AATCC	American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Testing dyed and chemically treaded fibers and fabrics.
ASTM	-American Society for Testing Materials -"Assemblies" -Tests all materials, including textiles. Test textile assemblies (wall panel conditions, chair upholstery)
NFPA	National Fire Protection Association Fire safety, how much smoke is acceptable, how quickly it can spread. -Draperies -NFPA 701
UFAC	Upholstered Furniture Action Council -Testing manufactures can voluntarily comply with -Marketing tool -Concerned with ignition sources (cigarettes)
Cal 117	California Department of Consumer Affairs, Bureau of Home furnishings and Thermal Installation (California Technical Bulletin) Flame standards to upholstered goods, assemblies
Steiner Tunnel Test	ASTM E-84 -Assemblies -Surface burning characteristics of building materials and interior finished -Primarily wall & ceiling finishes
Image: savonnerie (image/jpg)	Savonnerie or Aubusson Rug
Image: rya (image/jpg)	Rya Rug
Image: Flokati (image/jpg)	Flokati Rug
Image: Khilim (image/jpg)	Khilim (Kelim, Kilim) Rug
Image: Navajo (image/jpg)	Navajo, Hopi and Cheyenne Rug
Image: Dhurrie (image/jpg)	Dhurrie (Durrie, Durry) Rug
Image: Floor_mats (image/jpg)	Floor mats
Image: Delamination (image/jpg)	Delamination
Image: barrel_pleat (image/jpg)	Barrel pleat -round pleats
Image: Shirred (image/jpg)	Shirred -Gathered fabric -Bunched drape
Image: Pinch_pleat (image/jpg)	Pinch pleat -Most common -Narrow pleat at regular interval -Formal
Image: box_pleat (image/jpg)	Box Pleat -Traditional -Ribbons of fabric look
Image: French_pleat (image/jpg)	French Pleat -Similar to pinch -Top of drapery -Less formal
Image: Ripple_fold (image/jpg)	Ripple Fold -2nd most common -No pleat -Ripple, snake effect -Economical, less sewing -Hanging style not sewing style -Fullness
Image: Loop_or_tab (image/jpg)	Loop or Tab -Cannot use with tracks
Image: Scalloped (image/jpg)	Scalloped -Deep "U" shape
Image: Clipped (image/jpg)	Clipped -Difference in construction -Opens with clip or tie
Image: Accordion (image/jpg)	Accordion Pleat Shade -Folded into "V" shape -Compacts -Custom -High thermal value
Image: Austrian (image/jpg)	Austrian Shade -Scalloped shape
Image: Roman (image/jpg)	Roman Shade -Decorative pleat
Image: Decorative (image/jpg)	Decorative rod
Finial	End of decorative rod
Image: Track (image/jpg)	Track
Image: Grommets (image/jpg)	Grommets -Installation type -NOT HEADER TYPE
Image: Knife_edge (image/jpg)	Knife Edge -Crisp corner, slight round -No welt or seam at edge
Image: Welt_edge (image/jpg)	Welt Edge -Cord wrapped in fabric -"Self welt" = wrapped in matching fabric
Image: Tufting (image/jpg)	Tufting -Buttons, pins -Pillowing effect -Done from back, looped and pulled
Image: Toile (image/jpg)	Toile -Flat bed print -More detail -Limit 1 color
ASTM E-84	Steiner Tunnel Test -Assemblies -Surface burning characteristics of building materials and interior finished -Primarily wall & ceiling finishes

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