Wave Generation

Wave Generation

1. wave terminology

   • period
   • frequency
   • height
   • wavelength
   • period
   • crest
   • trough
   • magnitude
   • classification
     • capillary
     • chop
     • swell
     • seiche
     • tsunami
     • tide
     • internal

2. water motion

   • circular orbits
   • decrease with depth

3. interference

   • wave interaction
     • constructive
     • destructive
     • wind over ocean fetch

4. fully developed sea (maximum height)

   • wind speed
   • wind direction
   • fetch (distance)
   • wavelength proportional to speed
     • exception: rogue waves
       • example of wave interference
       • confluence of storms & currents
   • wind duration

5. waves in shallow water

   • refraction
   • breaking waves
     • wave speed is slowed by shallow water
     • wave base touches bottom
     • types
       • spilling breaker (flat bottom)
       • plunging breaker (steep bottom)
       • surging breaker (very steep bottom)
   • rip currents
   • seiches

6. resources

   • Winds & Waves
     • Climatology of global ocean winds
   • Climate Prediction Center
   • NOAA/NCEP Wavewatch plots