Waves and Tides

Waves and Tides

1. Constructive waves

   • Frequency: 6-9 waves per minute
   • Stronger swash than backwash
   • Long wave period
   • Low flat waves
   • Flat wide beach
   • Wavelength: large 100m crest-crest
   • Low energy (deposition)

2. Destructive waves

   • Frequency: 11+ waves per minute
   • Stronger backwash than swash
   • Short wave period
   • Tall steep waves
   • Steep beach
   • Wavelength: small 20m crest-crest
   • High energy (transportation)

3. Spring tide

   • Tidal range at its largest
   • The moon is between the earth and the sun
   • Gravitational pull combines creating biggest bulge of water and largest tide
     • Highest high tides
     • Lowest low tides

4. Neap tide

   • Small tidal range
   • The earth, moon and sun form a right angle
   • Gravitational fields interfere
     • Lowest high tides
     • Highest low tides

5. Tides are the periodic rise and fall in the level of the sea