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Waves

Description

Covers waves, including categorization, form, and more. For course at UWF.
Jo O'Bar
Quiz by Jo O'Bar, updated more than 1 year ago
Jo O'Bar
Created by Jo O'Bar over 5 years ago
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Resource summary

Question 1

Question
[blank_start]Waves[blank_end]: disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium.
Answer
  • Waves

Question 2

Question
Waves work by transferring water mass across the ocean's surface.
Answer
  • True
  • False

Question 3

Question
[blank_start]Progressive[blank_end] wave: movement of the waveform forward
Answer
  • Progressive

Question 4

Question
Check all that apply to orbital waves:
Answer
  • particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes
  • occur at the boundary between two fluid media, air and water
  • occur between layers of water of different densities
  • movement of the waveform forward
  • occur between layers of water of different salinities

Question 5

Question
Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in [blank_start]orbits[blank_end].
Answer
  • orbits
  • waves
  • cha-cha slide

Question 6

Question
Label the parts of the wave:
Image:
2018 01 11 14 31 05 (binary/octet-stream)
Answer
  • Frequency
  • Period
  • Orbital path of water molecule
  • Trough
  • Height
  • Wavelength
  • Still water level
  • Amplitude
  • Crest
  • Direction of wave motion

Question 7

Question
[blank_start]Wave crest[blank_end]: highest part of the wave above the average water level [blank_start]Wave trough[blank_end]: valley between wave crests below the average water level [blank_start]Wavelength[blank_end]: horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs [blank_start]Wave height[blank_end]: vertical distance between a wave crestand adjacent trough [blank_start]Wave period[blank_end]: time it takes for a wave to move adistance of one wavelength [blank_start]Wave frequency[blank_end]: number of waves passing a fixed point per secong
Answer
  • Wave crest
  • Wave trough
  • Wavelength
  • Wave height
  • Wave period
  • Wave frequency

Question 8

Question
Waves are classified by:
Answer
  • disturbing force
  • restoring force
  • wavelength
  • impact force
  • wave height

Question 9

Question
Disturbing force waves are caused by:
Answer
  • wind
  • storm surge
  • sudden change in atmospheric pressure
  • landslides, volcanic eruptions, earthquakes
  • all of these answers are correct

Question 10

Question
Tides are caused by:
Answer
  • gravitational forces from Earth
  • gravitational forces from moon
  • gravitational forces from sun
  • earth rotation
  • global wave patterns

Question 11

Question
Free waves...
Answer
  • are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
  • are maintained by the disturbing force
  • don't play by the tide's rules
  • go "against the grain" of global ocean currents due to greater disturbing force

Question 12

Question
Forced waves...
Answer
  • are maintained by the disturbing force
  • are formed and propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force
  • don't play by the tide's rules
  • go "against the grain" of global ocean currents

Question 13

Question
Tsunamis are examples of [blank_start]free waves[blank_end], while tides are examples of [blank_start]forced waves[blank_end].
Answer
  • free waves
  • forced waves
  • forced waves
  • free waves

Question 14

Question
Restoring force waves...
Answer
  • are the dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness
  • often overcompensate and cause oscillations
  • are caused by energy, like wind or storm surges

Question 15

Question
[blank_start]Gravity[blank_end] waves pull the crests downward, inertia causes the crests to overshoot and become [blank_start]troughs[blank_end].
Answer
  • Gravity
  • Free
  • Forced
  • troughs
  • crests

Question 16

Question
Label the table
Image:
2018 01 11 15 02 19 (binary/octet-stream)
Answer
  • Cohesion of water molecules
  • Wind over ocean
  • 60-150 m (200-500 ft)
  • Seafloor fault, eruption, landslide
  • Gravity
  • Seiche
  • Gravitational attraction, Earth rotation
  • Half Earth's circumference

Question 17

Question
What determines the size of the orbits of water?
Answer
  • Wavelength
  • Wave height
  • Wind
  • Water depth

Question 18

Question
What determines the shape of the orbits of water?
Answer
  • Water depth
  • Wavelength
  • Wind
  • Wave height

Question 19

Question
Deep-water waves move through water deeper than [blank_start]half[blank_end] of their wavelength, and have [blank_start]round[blank_end] orbits. Shallow-water waves move in water shallower than [blank_start]1/20[blank_end] of their original wavelength, and have [blank_start]flattened[blank_end] orbits.
Answer
  • half
  • one-third
  • 1/20
  • 1/10
  • round
  • flattened
  • 1/20
  • 1/10
  • half
  • one-third
  • flattened
  • round

Question 20

Question
_________________ waves form as wind friction stretches the water surface and as surface tension tries to resotre it to smoothness.
Answer
  • Capillary
  • Wind
  • Rogue
  • Seiche
  • Tide

Question 21

Question
___________ waves are gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water.
Answer
  • Wind
  • Capillary
  • Rogue
  • Tide
  • Seiche

Question 22

Question
[blank_start]Capillary[blank_end] waves become gravity waves as their wavelength exceeds [blank_start]1.74[blank_end] cm. These wind-induced gravity waves ([blank_start]wind[blank_end] waves) continue to grow as long as the wind above them exceeds their speed.
Answer
  • Capillary
  • Wind
  • Tide
  • 1.74
  • 2.34
  • 1.94
  • 3.64
  • wind
  • capillary
  • tide

Question 23

Question
Wind waves will continue to grow as long as...
Answer
  • the wind above them exceeds their speed.
  • the force of gravity is less than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.
  • you are waving back.
  • the surface tension of the water is weaker than the force of the wind on the surface of the water.

Question 24

Question
Waves traveling in groups is called...
Answer
  • a wave train
  • there is no name for the phenomenon
  • a rat-pack
  • a wave fleet
  • a gaggle

Question 25

Question
Check all that applies to a wave train:
Answer
  • Leading wave transfers half of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead
  • Other half of energy is transferred behind to maintain wave motion
  • Leading wave continuously disappears, while a new wave is continuously formed
  • Waves are not actually traveling, but the lagging wave continuously disappears as a new wave formes in front, giving the illusion of movement
  • Leading wave transfers 1/4 of its energy forward to initiate motion in the undisturbed surface ahead

Question 26

Question
Which are factors affecting growing wind waves?
Answer
  • wind strength
  • wind duration
  • fetch
  • fully developed sea
  • salinity
  • density

Question 27

Question
[blank_start]Wind strength[blank_end]: wind speed [blank_start]Wind duration[blank_end]: time the wind blows [blank_start]Fetch[blank_end]: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction [blank_start]Fully developed sea[blank_end]: maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch
Answer
  • Wind strength
  • Wind duration
  • Fetch
  • Fully developed sea

Question 28

Question
How long must a wind continuously flow for large wind waves to develop?
Answer
  • 2 days
  • 1 day
  • 1 week
  • 2 hours

Question 29

Question
Wave interference can be _______ or _______.
Answer
  • destructive, constructive
  • complient, rogue
  • blue, green

Question 30

Question
[blank_start]Destructive interference[blank_end]: two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave [blank_start]Constructive interference[blank_end]: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
Answer
  • Destructive interference
  • Constructive interference

Question 31

Question
________ waves: freak waves that occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
Answer
  • Rogue
  • Tsunami
  • Freak
  • Interference

Question 32

Question
[blank_start]Deep-water[blank_end] waves change to [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves as they approach shore.
Answer
  • Deep-water
  • Shallow-water
  • shallow-water
  • deep-water

Question 33

Question
__________ waves: break violently against the store and leave and air-filled tobe/channel between the crest and foot of the wave.
Answer
  • Plunging
  • Rogue
  • Freak
  • Tube

Question 34

Question
When are plunging waves formed?
Answer
  • When waves approach shore over a steeply sloped bottom
  • When waves approach shore over a shallowly sloped bottom
  • When waves hit each other with destructive interference
  • When waves hit each other with constructive interference

Question 35

Question
Wave refraction:
Answer
  • waves breaking in a line paralell to shore
  • waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
  • the propagation of a wave around an opbstacle
  • the wave that results after constructive interference

Question 36

Question
Wave diffraction:
Answer
  • the propagation of a wave around an obstacle
  • waves breaking in a line parallel to shore
  • waves breaking in a line perpendicular to shore
  • the cancellation of two waves with destructive interference

Question 37

Question
A [blank_start]tsunami[blank_end], or "harbor wave," is produced by [blank_start]water displacement[blank_end]. They are [blank_start]longer[blank_end] and [blank_start]faster[blank_end] than ordinary waves. They are [blank_start]shallow-water[blank_end] waves with wavelengths of up to [blank_start]150[blank_end] miles and can travel at over [blank_start]435[blank_end] mph. They [blank_start]are not[blank_end] very high in open ocean, but get [blank_start]bigger[blank_end] as they get closer to shore.
Answer
  • tsunami
  • rogue wave
  • water displacement
  • wind
  • ocean currents
  • longer
  • shorter
  • faster
  • slower
  • shallow-water
  • deep-water
  • 150
  • 15
  • 100
  • 10
  • 435
  • 235
  • 35
  • 135
  • are not
  • are
  • bigger
  • smaller
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