Karteikarten
COASTS
Karten in diesem Stapel (142)
- 1Is a costal environment an open or closed system?Open system
- 2Define a costa systemAn open system with a range of inputs, components/stores, flows/transfers and outputs
- 3give some examples of inputs in a costal systemwaves, wind, tides, sea currents
sediment, geology of coastline, sea level change - 4give some examples of the components from erosional processes and fro ind and water transportErosional landforms and landscapes
Depositional landforms and landscapes - 5Give some examples of outputsDissipation of wave energy
Accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
Sediment removed beyond local sediment cell - 6Give an example of a negative feedback mechanism in a costa environmentWhen a system is in dynamic equilibrium and sediment is eroded from the beach during a storm sediment is then deposited offshore forming an off shore bar,thw waves are now forced to break before reaching the beach which reduces their erosion power when they reach the beach. Then when the storm calms the normal wave conditions rework the sediment from the offshore bar back to the beach and the systems goes back the dynamic equilibrium
- 7describe where the back shore is and what occurs in the back shoreThe area between the high water mark and the landward limit of marine activity.
Changes from storm activity usually occur here - 8Describe where the foreshore is and what occurs in the foreshoreThe area between the high water mark and the low water marks.
Most important zone for marine activity when not under the influence of storm activity - 9Describe where the inshore is and what occurs in the inshore.The area between the low water mark and the point where the waves fail to have any influence beneath them
- 10Describe where the offshore is and what occurs in the offshore.The area where the waves now fail to have impact on the sea bed and where deposition is the main process
- 11Describe the nearshore and the 3 different zones found within it.The near shore is the area extending seaward from the high water mark to the area where the waves start to break
SURF ZONE - Waves start to break forming a foamy, bubble surface and where the waves move up the beach.
SWASH ZONE - area where the turbulent layer of water washes up the beach after a wave has broken.
BREAKER ZONE - the area where the waves approaching the coastline begin to break and the water depth is about 5-10m - 12what is backwash?Any water running back down the beach towards the sea
- 13describe how a wave is formedAs the wave reached the seabed the friction starts to build up and the base of the wave starts to slow down. the hight and steepness of the wave increases until the crest plunges forward and the wave breaks
- 14how does the wind erode things?Through abrasion
- 15Why is wind an important agent of moving sediment along the coat?It is able to pick up sediment and move it along the coats, inland from the shore line and beyond the tidal zone.
- 16How are waves created and what is the role of wind?The transfer of energy from the ind to the sea. The energy acquired by the waves depends on the strength of the wind, the length of time its blowing and the fetch.
- 17What is wave energy determine by?Variation in wind strength and duration of wind. where wind speeds are high and uninterrupted then wave energy increases
- 18When talking about constrictive waves describe their action upon a beachWhen the wave approaches the beach the wave front steepens slowly giving a gentle spill on to the beach surface. swash rapidly loses volume and energy as the water percolates through the beach material - giving a weak backwash with not enough energy to pull sediment off the beach or to impede the swash from the next wave - impact = the sediment in constantly moved up the beach leading to the formation of ridges - also encouraging destructive waves as the beach becomes steeper
- 19When talking about destructive waves describe their action upon a beach.When the approach the beach they rapidly steepen and when breaking plunge down - creating a powerful backwash due to little forward movement of water also inhibiting the swash from the next wave
Very little material is pushed up the beach and the strong backwash erodes material down the beach
Creating steeper beach profiles - 20How is a storm beach created?The force of each wave may project some shingle well towards the rear end of the beach where is forms a large ridge known as the storm beach
- 21Give an example of negative feed back in terms of constructive and destructive waves.Constructive waves build up a beach resulting in a steeper beach profile and this encourages waves to become more destructive. These destructive waves then then move material back out to sea reducing the beach profile and encoring more constructive waves - should maintain a state of dynamic equilibrium
- 22Describe wave refractionWhen the wave hits the coats line thats not a regular shape the waves refract and become increasingly parallel to the coastline. As the waves approach the coast line it tends to drag in shallow water as it reaches the coastline - increases the wave height and steepness and shortens the wave length so the part of the wave in deeper water moves faster forwards and causes the wave to bend - wave energy becomes concentrated at the headland = greater erosion. Lower energy waves spill into the bay = beach deposition as the waves pile against the headland there might be a alight local sea level rise results in longshore current from the headland - moves some of the eroded material towards the bays contributing to the build up of the beach
- 23Define a currentThe seasonal or permanent movement of surface water in the seas and oceans
- 24What is a longshore current?they occur as most of the waves do not hit the coastline head on but at an angle to the shoreline - generating a flow of water running parallel to the shoreline - moving water along the surf zone and transporting sediment parallel to the shoreline - longshore drift
- 25What is a rip current?strong currents moving away from the shoreline develop when seawater is 'piled up' along the coastline by incoming waves. To begin the current runs parallel to the coastline before flowing out through the breaker zone where they change direction - v dangerous for swimmers
- 26What is an upwelling?The movement of cold water from the deep oceans toward the surface - the dense cold water replaces the warmer water to make nutrient rich cold ocean currents
- 27why does the moon have greater influence on the tides than the sun?The moon is closer - the moon pulls the water towards it creating a high tide - there is also a compensatory budge on the opposite side of the earth - between the 2 bulges are the lowest low tides
- 28When does a spring tide occur?Twice in a lunar month when the earth and moon are aligned the gravitational pull is the strongest - producing the heights monthly tidal range
- 29When does a neap tide occur?When the moon and the sun are 90 degrees to each other in relation to the earth - giving the lowest monthly tidal range - at this time the high and low tides are between 10-30% lower that average
- 30However what are tided influenced by?The morphology of the seabed, the proximity of the land masses and the impact of the spinning forces of the earth.
- 31What is the tidal range?the difference in height of the sea water at high and low tides
- 32What do tides determine that help to shape the coastline?The determine the the upper and lower limits of erosion and deposition and the amount on time each day the littoral zone is exposed to sub-aerial weathering.
- 33What area in Britain is affected by tidal surges?North sea and east coats of Britain - depressions over the north sea create low pressure that have an effect of rising sea levels then strong wind push the waves ahead of the storm pushing the sea water towards the coastline - so the waves 'pile up' against the coats - the shape of the north sea also causes alot of funnelling - high tides intensify the effect
- 34What are the characteristics of a low energy coats?The rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion, low energy supply, typical land forms include: beach's and spits.
Some examples include estuaries, inlets and sheltered bays - Baltic sea - 35What is a high energy coast?Strong steady prevailing winds = high energy waves
The rate of erosion is greater than the rate of deposition
Typical landforms include headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms
EXAMPLES - Atlantic coats of Northers Europe - 36Sediment = important input, where does sediment come from? (what supplies the sediment?)1. Streams or rivers flowing into the sea
2. Cliff erosions
3. Estuaries
4. Offshore and banks
5. Material from biological origin - including shells, coral fragments and skeletons or marine organisms - 37What is a sediment cell?Distinct areas of coastline separated from other areas by well-defind boundaries, such as headlands and stretches of deep water.
- 38What has research suggested about the movement of sediment?That sediment movement occurs between distinct areas or sediment cells
- 39Is a sediment cell a CLOSED or OPEN system?Closed where nothing can be gained or lost - but is easy for fine sediment to move around the headland into neighbouring cells
- 40Why are sediments divided into smaller sub cells Give an exampleTo allow closer study and management of sediment.
Flamborough head - 41What is Hydraulic action?Refers to the impact of rocks of the sheer force of water itself - exert enormous pressure upon the rock surface - wave pounding
- 42What is wave quarrying?A breaking wave traps air in the weaknesses of the rock - compressing the air into the spaces, water pulls back and = explosive effect of air under pressure as the air is being released - overall effect = weakening the rock face, storms may remove large chunks of rock face
- 43What is abrasion and corrosion?The material that the sea bed has picked up also wears away rock faces. Sand, shingle and boulders have been hurled against the rock face cause lots of damage - apparent in the intertidal rock platforms where sediment is drawn back and forth
- 44What is attrition?The rocks in the sea which carry out abrasion are slowly worn down by each other into smaller pieces.
- 45What is solution?dissolving of calcium based rocks, carbon based rocks are broken down by water flowing from the land or rainwater which may be slightly acidic.
also may be the EVAPORATION of salts from water in the rocks to produce crystals - they expand and put pressure on the rocks causing them to break and weaken - 46What effects the rate of costal erosion?Wave steepness and breaking point - steeper waves = higher energy and ave greater erosive force than low energy waves, - waves the break at the foot of the cliff have greater erosive power than those that break some distance from the shore
- 47what impact does the fetch have on coats erosion?how far the wave had travelled determine how much energy has been generated by it.
- 48how does sea depth effect the rate of costal erosion?A steeply shelving seabed = higher energy waves; of more friction
- 49How des costal configuration effect the rate if costal erosion?for example headlands attract wave energy through refraction
- 50How does the presence of a beach affect the rate of costal erosion?Beaches absorb wave energy and therefore protect the beach from erosion, so the larger the beach the slower the rate of costal erosion - wider beaches spread out the wave power, single beaches deal with steep waves as energy is rapidly dissipated through friction and percolation
- 51How does human activity effect the rate of costal erosion?People may remove protective materials from the beaches = more erosion, or may reduce erosion by the construction f sea defences - but sea defenced in one place may lead to erosion rates increasing in another.
- 52What does lithology refer to?The characteristics of rock, especially resistant to erosion and permeability, resistant rock such as granite get eroded less than weaker rock such as clay.
- 53what is differential erosion?The variation in the rates at which rocks wear away
- 54When the rocks are running parallel to the coast line what is this called?concordant coastline for example in the South parts such as portland limestone forming cliffs and these have protected the coat from erosion
- 55When the rocks are running perpendicular to the coats what is the coats line called?Disconcordant - in the east side - allow the sea to penetrate along weaker clays and graves producing larger bays
- 56How does the dip in the rock effect coals erosion?The steepest cliffs tend for form in rocks that have horizontal strata or which dip gently inland - where rocks that dip towards to the coats tend to produce much more gently sloping features
- 57What does the transportation of sediment by the sea represent?A flow/trasnfer of material
- 58What is traction?Where are boulders and stones are rolled along the sea bed and beach by moving water - HIGH energy environments
- 59What is saltation?Small stones bounce/leapfrog along the seabed and beach - high energy conditions - small particles thrust up from the seabed and fall back to the bottom - they land and dislodge other particles = more bounce along the seabed
- 60What is suspension?Very small particles of sand and silt are carried along by moving water - material is not only carried but also picked up through turbulence - large amounts of suspended load can cause milky appearance of water
- 61What is solution?dissolved substances are transported within moving water
- 62How does longshore drift occur?When the waves hit the coastline at an angle due to the prevailing winds and material is pulled back down the beach through swash but its pulled down perpendicularly. The swash pushes the material up the beach in the same direction as the wave approaches the coats line and the beck wash pulls the sediment down the beach at a right angle to the beach. Over a period of time the material is transported down the beach in a zig zag fashion
- 63What can interfere with longshore drift?Obstacles such ad groynes and piers can trap sediment = stops the supply of material to other beaches
- 64When do marine process take place?Low energy waves or where rapid costal erosion provides an abundant supply of material - the sea lays down material where there is a reduction in energy resulting from a decrease in velocity/ volume of water
- 65In what situations does deposition occur?1.When sand and shingle accumulate faster than they're removed
2. As waves slow following breaking
3. As water pauses at he tops of the swash b4 back wash starts
4. When water percolates into the beach material as backwash takes it back down the beach - 66What is aeolian deposition?The entrapment, transport and devotion of sediment by WIND - wind = v important in shaping the coastline; its constant feature of most.
- 67How does air/wind move be created?Air moves in réponse so small pressure differences set up by warmer land and closer sea - large tidal range = large amounts of sand is exposed at low tides = provides a a supply of sediment to be picked up by the wind.
- 68What is surface creep?A process similar to traction, where the ind role or slides sand grains along the surface
- 69What is saltation?Where the wind is strong enough to temporarily lift the grains into the airflow to heights of up to one meter for distance up to 20m to 30m
- 70what is subaerial weathering?They're land based processes that breakdown the coastline - breakdown underlying rock and allow sudden movements - broken down insitu.
- 71Why are weathering processes common on a coast line?Due to the presence of air and water cycles of wetting and drying
1 - mechanical/physical weathering
2 - biological weathering
3 - chemical weathering - 72Give a brief over view of mechanical weatheringdependant on the nature of the climate e.g below freezing freeze thaw occurs - especially when theres a large supply of water. Water enters the cracks and freezes thus expands exerting pressure on the crack and weakening it, this repeats until the rock eventually breaks.
- 73When is the rock said to experience pressure release?Where processes of erosion, weathering and mass movement remove overlying rock
- 74Give a brief over view of biological weathering.Processes that lead to the breakdown of rocks by the action of vegetation and costal organisms. Very active on coastlines.
- 75Give an example of a marine organism that causes biological weatheringPiddock have adapted shells that allow them to drill into solid rocks - active where theres chalk
- 76How does seaweed cause biological weatheringit attaches to rocks and the action of the sea can be enough to pry open the cracks and weaken them, some organisms secrete chemicals to break down the rocks
- 77What is chemical weathering?when rocks are exposed to air and moisture so chemical processes can breakdown the rocks - solution is the main chemical process
- 78Describe oxidationcauses the rocks to disintegrate when the o2 dissolved in the water reacts with the minerals forming oxides and hydroxides
- 79describe hydrationmakes rocks are susceptible to more chemical weathering - the addition of water to mineral rocks - causing the rock to expand thus creating stress causing the rock to break down - weaken the rock and can create cracks.
- 80describe hydrolysisWhen mildly acidic water reacts with minerals in the rocks and create clays and dissolvable salts - degrading the rock
- 81Describe carbonationWhen co2 dissolved in rain water create slightly acidic carbonic acid - reacts with calcium carbonate and breaks down the minerals in the rocks - gases of co2 also react with water to make carbonic acid that turns into acid rain, the presence of sulphur dioxide and nitric oxides also causes acid rain
- 82what is mass movement dependant on?1. The level of cohesion within the sediment
2. The heigh and angle of the slope
3. grain size
4. temp na level of saturation - 83WThe sudden movement or failure of land that occur due to the land being fully saturated and under the influence of gravity
- 84Describe a landslideoccur from cliffs made of softer rock or deposited material - slips as a result of failure in it when its lubricated - following heavy rainfall
- 85Describe a rockfalloccur when cliffs are undercut by the sea iron slopes affected by mechanical weathering like frost action
- 86Describe a mudflowHeavy rainfall causing large quantities of fine material to flow down hill - soil becomes saturated and if excess water cannot percolate then the land becomes very fluid and flows down hill - nature of flow depends on the level of saturation, type of slope angle and the sediment type
- 87What are gentle slopes referred to as?Soilfluction
- 88Describe rotational slip or slumpingsofter material overlies harder material then cliffs are subject to slumping. Excess lubrication whole chunks of cliff hill move down the slide plane thats curved - producing a rotational feature
- 89What is soil creep?Very slow and unnoticeable movement of soil particles down a slope - due to the presence of soil moisture
- 90What is another important flow in a coastline?Run off, may take the form of a stream, river, may carry load during times of flood, assists mass movement.
- 91How can you describe a coastline?Non - static, the landforms are always changing, waves a tides constantly shape the coastline as well as processes of erosion and deposition.
- 92Describe the formation of a head land and baysareas of alternating soft and hard rock - processes of erosion are dominant on the less resistant rock forming bays and the more resistant rock forming the headland.due to refracting the headlands receive the most powerful waves and are more susceptible to processes of erosion than the bays. bays then experience the low energy waves that allow sediment to accumulate and form beaches - the beaches protect the beach
- 93What are the 4 processes in the formation of headlands and bays1. differential rates of erosion and deposition
2. wave refraction
3. erosion of the headland
3. deposition at the bay - 94What are the outputs of these processes?1. headland and bay
2. erosional feature of the headland
3. depositional features in the bay - 95how does a wave-cut notch form?When high energy waves break at he foot of a cliff they cause undercutting of the cliff, with the erosion concentrated at the base of the cliff it undercuts forming a wave-cut notch. further erosion causes the undercut to break off. The cliff starts to retreat and forms a gently sloping (5 degrees) wave cut platform.
- 96What happens if the platform is still in the total range?When its continually exposed to marine processes and sub-aerial weathering weaknesses in the rock surface may be exploited band on closer inspection the surface is jagged and there are many rock pools and figures.
- 97Why does the rate of erosion decrease when the wave cut platform increases?The platform continues to grow and the waves break further out into the sea and have to travel across more of the platform = greater dissipation of wave energy thus reducing the rate of erosion and slowing down the rate of growth of the platform - thus there i a limit to how big the platform can grow
- 98How is a geo formed?Along a joint (weakness) the sea cuts inland widening the crack to from a narrow, steep sided inlet known as a geo.
- 99How is a cave formed?When the cliff is undercut and the cave is formed - comb of marine processes - if erosion continues vertically upwards the cave can extend to the top of the cliff where a blow hole will form.
- 100How will an arch form?If the cave is on the side of hr headland then the process of ave refraction will extend it backwards to meet another on the other side, eventually the joining of the cave will create a hole through the headland and for an arch
- 101How does a stack from?As the cliff recedes and the WCP develops the arch will eventually collapse due to gravity falling marine and subaerial processes leaving a stack behinde
- 102How does a stump form?Erosion of the sea at the base of the cliff will exploit the wave cut notch leading to it collapsing, a small portion of the wave cut platform may be left, leaving a stump.
- 103Give an example of these processes and landformsOn purbeck in dorset in the Portland stone the sea has cut the famous arch of DURRDEL DOOR.
- 104Why do landforms of costal deposition form?When the rate of deposition is faster then the rate of erosion, low energy waves or where rapid costal erosion provides an abundant supply of sediment
- 105BEACH CHARACTERISTICS - where are beaches found and how are they formed?Where the land meets the sea and represents the accumulation of sediment deposited between low spring tides and highest point reached by storm wave - mainly composed of sand and shingle
- 106What is the general angle of a sand beach?About 5 degrees or below - because the small particle size = the sand becomes more compact when we and allows little percolation - more swash returns as backwash and little energy is lost through friction and material is carried down the beach - leading the development of ridges and runnels in sand at low water mark - run parallel to the shoreline and are broken channels that drain water off the beach
- 107What is the general angle of a shingle beach?Its larger sized sediment so around 10-20 degrees- water rapidly percolated through the material so the backwash is limited in its ability to transport material back down the beach - this and he uneven surface = hard to erode material off the beach.
- 108When will a level storm beach form?strong swash at spring high tide will create a storm beach - a ridge composed of the biggest boulders thrown by the largest waves above the usual high tide mark.
- 109What occurs below the storm beach?A series of ridges marking the successively lower high tides as the cycles goes from spring to neap. - ridges are known as berms and are built up by constructive waves.
- 110what are cusps?Semi - circular shaped depressions which form when waves break directly onto the beach and the swash and backwash are strong - occur at the junction of the shingle and sandy beaches, the sides of the cusps channel incoming swash into the centre of the embayment producing a stronger backwash in the central area - drags material down the beach - deepening the cusps
- 111What do the cusps do to the backwash and the swash?The sides of the cusps channel incoming swash into the centre of the embayment and this produces a stronger backwash in the central area - drags the material back down the beach - deepening the cusps.
- 112What forms below the cusps?Ripples develop on the sand by wave action/tidal curents
- 113why are the terms swash and backwash aligned beaches used?To reflect the nature of equilibrium between erosion and deposition a beach tends towards.
The angle at which waves approach the beach determine the type of landforms found there - 114Describe the characteristics of a swash aligned beach1. Parellel to the incoming wave crest
2. minimal long shore drift
3. Found on irregular coastlines where LSD is impeded and waves hit sections of the coastline head-on. - 115Describe the characteristics of a drift aligned beach1. Orientated parallel to the direction of the dominant LSD
2. Have lots of sediment transported along them
3. Develop where the coastline is irregular/ where the predominant wave direction is at an angle to the beach
4. can extend out from the coastline when there is a sudden change in the direction of the coastline e.g reaching an estuary - 116Why is the idea of equilibrium important on a drift aligned beach?Because without the continuous supply of sediment to the beach then LSD would remove sediment faster than it was deposited
- 117Describe a spitA spit is an elongated, narrow ridge of land that has one end joined up to the land and the other projecting out into the sea or across an estuary - usually on a drift aligned beach
- 118How is a spit formed?The prevailing wind direction - southwest - and the max fetch means that material is carried from the west to the east along the coast by LSD. there is build up of sediment on the sheltered side of the headland. As the material is carried more eastwards storms build up more material about the HW. The finer material is carried to the end of the spit into the deeper water - as the water loses the energy/ capacity to transport the sediment its deposited extending the spit into the estuary.
- 119Why does the end of the spit curve round?Because wave refraction carries material round into the more sheltered water and the cod most dominant wind direction and fetch also contribute to this - pushing the spit material back towards the mainland
- 120Why can the spit not grow all the way across the estuary?Because of other wind directions and as the material is carried seaward by the river and the deeper water at the centre the growth inhibits
- 121What are the characteristics of a simple spit?1. Straight or recurved
2. Do no have minor spits, recurved edges along their landward edge - 122What are the characteristics of a compound spit?1. May have similar features to simple spits
2. Have lots of recurved edges/ minor spits along their landward side - potentially marking the position where they terminated in the past - 123How do sand dunes form?As spits mature, sand dries out and is blown to the landward side - accumulates and stabilises by veg by species such as marram grass.
As the spit develops more a larger sheltered area develops between the land and the spit. - 124How do salt marshes form?Low energy, gentle waves enter the area and deposits finer material e.g silt an clay. These deposits build-up and are colonised by veg to become salt marshes
- 125What is a tombolo?A spit that joins and island e.g Britain in Chesil beach on the south coast of England
- 126How does a bar develop?If a spit develops across a bay where there is no strong flow of water from the landward side - sediment can reach across the other side - BAR
- 127How else can a bar form?The onshore migration of material from offshore as the sea level rose following the last ice age - partially submerged by incoming tides.
- 128What is an offshore bar?Where a ridge of beach material that remains semi submerged accumulates seaward of the breaker zone then it is an offshore bar.
- 129What is a barrier beach?An elongated band of deposited sand or shingle lying parallel to the coastline na not submerged by incoming tides. Where the bank is high enough to allow sand dunes to develop is it known as a barrier island - often the sheltered area between the barrier beach and land becomes a lagoon or costal marsh
- 130What characteristics develop where the sea and land interact?Bays
Estuaries
beaches
Deltas
Dunes
Mud flats and salt marshes - 131What are the characteristic costal landscapes a result from?The holocene.
- 132What important factors contribute to the formation of the costal landscapes?local tectonic processes
sea level change
climatic change - natural and human
changing ocean currents
natural disasters
changing nature of human activity - 133Describe a sand duneCostal sand dunes are accumulations of sand shaped into mounds by the wind - dynamic landform
- 134What are the inputs to a sand dune systemplentiful supply of sand
strong offshore winds
large tidal range
obstacle to trap the sand
veg groth to encourage further growth of the dune - 135Describe the movement and generation of wind.Sand is moved inland by the process of saltation.
Due to the differential heating of the land and the sea - localised differences in atmospheric pressure man that during the day the wind on the costal fringe if from the sea. Air moves towards the area of slightly lower atmospheric pressure generated over the land as air is warmed by and rises over the warmer land - from slightly higher pressure over the colder sea. - 136When there is a large tidal range how does this contribute to the formation of sand dunes?Means that large amounts of of sand exposed at low tide.
- 137what is a sand dune succession called?PSAMMOSERE
- 138State the development of a sand dune succession1. Sand trapped by obstacles at back of beach, on the highest berm or storm beach - EMBRYO DUNES
2. Embryo dunes are suitable for the colonisation by grasses - can grow upwards through the accumulating wind - blown sand stabilising the surface
3. upward growth of the embryo dunes create dunes that are beyond the reach of the highest storm tide - foredunes - yellow; have little organic matter, veg cover increases the humus added to the sand - the dunes look more grey - 20m
4. dunes become fixed - organic layer develops as other veg colonises the dune.
5. behind the yellow and grey dunes the sand supply is cut off - smaller dune features - these areas may be referred to as wasting dunes/ dune heath - 139How is marram grass good for sand dunes?long roots and underground shoots help to bind the sand together - adds organic matter to these ones- aids retention
- 140What is a dunce slack?depressions within the dunes where the water table in on/near the surface and the conditions are often damp.
- 141What is a blowout?where wind is funnelled through areas and has removed the sand. wildlife/ human activity ca often be a catalyst for the formation of blowouts
- 142—
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- A level geography (coasts ) Karteikarten am COASTS , erstellt von emily balmbra am 06/07/2017.
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