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WAVE

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WAVE

Wave Dynamics
- Gravity
- Tide
- Tsunami
  - Generation
    - Offshore fault
- Wind waves
Type
- Wind wave
  - 60-150 m (200-500 ft)
    - Wind over ocean
- Seiche
  - Variable; a function of basin size
    - Change in atmospheric pressure
    - storm surge
- Seismic sea wave
  - 200 km (125 miles)
    - Faulting of seafloor
    - Volcanic eruption
    - Landslide
- Tide
  - ½ circumference of Earth
    - Gravitational attraction
    - Rotation of Earth
Ocean
- Wavelength
- Crest
  - Frequency
    - Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second
  - Period
    - Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
- Water level
- Orbital path
Factors of wind wave
- Wind strength
  - Wind must be moving fater than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
- Wind duration
  - Winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves
- Fetch
  - The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction
- Gravity
  - Surf
    - Swells
Interference
- Destructive interference
- Constructive interference
- Rogue waves
Approaching Shore
- Spilling waves
- Plunging waves
- Surging waves
- Collapsing waves