WAVE

WAVE

1. Wave Dynamics

   • Gravity
   • Tide
   • Tsunami
     • Generation
       • Offshore fault
   • Wind waves

2. Type

   • Wind wave
     • 60-150 m (200-500 ft)
       • Wind over ocean
   • Seiche
     • Variable; a function of basin size
       • Change in atmospheric pressure
       • storm surge
   • Seismic sea wave
     • 200 km (125 miles)
       • Faulting of seafloor
       • Volcanic eruption
       • Landslide
   • Tide
     • ½ circumference of Earth
       • Gravitational attraction
       • Rotation of Earth

3. Ocean

   • Wavelength
   • Crest
     • Frequency
       • Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second
     • Period
       • Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
   • Water level
   • Orbital path

4. Factors of wind wave

   • Wind strength
     • Wind must be moving fater than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
   • Wind duration
     • Winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves
   • Fetch
     • The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction
   • Gravity
     • Surf
       • Swells

5. Interference

   • Destructive interference
   • Constructive interference
   • Rogue waves

6. Approaching Shore

   • Spilling waves
   • Plunging waves
   • Surging waves
   • Collapsing waves