Flashcards
Oceanography chapter 9 waves
Flashcards do conjunto (65)
- 1What are disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium called? (photo on slide 3)Waves
- 2What do waves do? (photo on slide 3)transmit energy
- 3What do waves not do? (photo on slide 3)They do not transmit water mass across the ocean’s surface
- 4Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in (photo on slide 4)orbits
- 5what type of wave includes particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes? (photo on slide 4)Orbital waves
- 6Where do Orbital waves occur? (photo on slide 4)- boundary between two fluid media, air & water
- between layers of water of different densities - 7What type of wave involves movement of the waveform forward? (photo on slide 4)Progressive wave
- 8What is the highest part of the wave above the average water level called?Wave crest
- 9What is the valley between wave crests below the average water level called?Wave trough
- 10What is the vertical distance between a wave crest and the adjacent trough called?Wave height
- 11What is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs called?Wave length
- 12What is the time it takes for a wave to move a distance of one wavelength called?Wave period
- 13What is the number of waves passing a fixed point per second called?Wave frequency
- 14What are waves classifyed by? (photo on slide 6)- disturbing force
- restoring force
- wavelength - 15What creates waves? (photo on slide 6)disturbing force
- 16What tries to flatten waves? (photo on slide 6)restoring force
- 17Disturbing force waves are caused by what types of energy?- wind
- storm surge
- sudden change in atmospheric pressure
- landslides
- volcanic euruptions
- earthquakes - 18What causes tides?gravitational forces from Earth, moon, & sun, combined with the Earth’s rotation
- 19What do Free waves do and what is an example of them?Formed & propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force.
Example: Tsunami - 20What maintains forced waves and an example of it?Maintained by the disturbing force.
Example: tides - 21Definition of restoring force waves, and what it does.- Definition: dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness
- Often overcompensates & causes oscillation - 22What do gravity waves do?pulls the crests downward, inertia
causes the crests to overshoot and become troughs - 23What does wavelength do?Indicates a type of wave based on the typical length
- 24Look over table on slide 9look over table on slide 9
- 25What does wavelength determine for the orbits of water? (photo on slide 10)the size
- 26What does water depth determine for the orbits? (photo on slide 10)the shape
- 27Waves moving through water deeper than half of their wavelength. (photo on slide 10)Deep-water waves
- 28What is involved in deep-water waves? (photo on slide 10)- They only have capillary and wind waves.
- Have round orbits - 29Waves in water shallower than 1/20 of their original wavelength. (photo on slide 10)Shallow-water waves
- 30Shallow-water waves have what type of orbits? (photo on slide 10)Flattened orbits
- 31Look over table on slide 11look over table on slide 11
- 32Form as wind friction stretches the water surface & as surface tension tries to restore it to smoothness (photo on slide 12, 13)Capillary waves
- 33Capillary waves are always present where? (photo on slide 12, 13)in the ocean
- 34Gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water (photo on slide 12, 13)Wind waves
- 35How high are wind waves? (photo on slide 12, 13)~3 meters high
- 36What is the wavelength of wind waves? (photo on slide 12, 13)60-150 meters wavelength
- 37Where are wind waves common? (photo on slide 12, 13)Common in open ocean
- 38Where do wind waves grow from? (photo on slide 12, 13)capillary waves
- 39What is the maximum wind wave height to wavelength ratio? (photo on slide 12, 13)Have a maximum: 1:7 ration of wave height to wavelength
- 40What is wave strength determined by?wave speed
- 41What must happen for energy transfer to continue for wave strength?Wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
- 42What is wind duration?time the wind blows
- 43Winds that blow for a short time will what?not generate large waves
- 44How long must a strong wind flow continuously to have large waves develop?2 days
- 45Uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction (photo on slide 15)Fetch
- 46Maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration & fetch (photo on slide 15)Fully developed sea
- 47What has the greatest potential for large waves because of continous winds called? (photo on slide 16)West Wind Drift
- 48What is the measurment of the West Wind Drift?~30 meters
- 49What happens when waves meet?they interfere with one another
- 50What are the two types of wave interference?- Destructive interference
- Constructive interference - 51What is destructive interfrence?two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
- 52What is constructive interference?addititve interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
- 53These freak waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximumRogue waves
- 54How a wave train breaks against the shore
- 55What type of wave breaks violently against the shore? (photo on slide 21)plunging waves
- 56What do plunging waves leave between the crest and foot of the wave? (photo on slide 21)they leave air-filled tube or channel
- 57Plunging waves are formend when? (photo on slide 21)waves approach shore over a steeply sloped bottom
- 58A tsunami is also known as aharbor wave
- 59What produces a tusnami? (photo on slide 22)water displacement from earthquakes, landslides, volcanoes, asteroid impacts, ice bergs falling from glaciers
- 60What is different from ordinary waves and a tsunami? (photo on slide 22)They are longer and faster
- 61What type of waves are tsunamis? (photo on slide 22)Shallow-water waves
- 62How long can tsunami wavelengths be? (photo on slide 22)up to 150 miles
- 63How far can tsunamis travel? (photo on slide 22)Travel at over 435mi/h
- 64How high are tsunamis in the open ocean? (photo on slide 22)Not very high in open ocean ~1m
- 65What happens to tsunamis as they get closer to shore? (photo on slide 22)they get bigger
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- Biology FlashCards sobre Oceanography chapter 9 waves, criado por Ashleigh McDevitt em 17-10-2024.
- Criado por
- Ashleigh McDevitt
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