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Flashcards

Waves

Sunnidae Gallien Marine Physics Inglês 13 flashcards

Flashcards do conjunto (13)

  1. 1WaveTransfers a disturbance from one point of a material to another
    - Energy is transported through the water without transferring the water itself
  2. 2Shallow Water waves- speed has no connection to the formula
    - controlled by water depth
  3. 3Energy FluxAmount of energy x speed of energy
  4. 4Wind Size Dependencies- Wind Speed
    - Duration
    - Fetch
    ( and depth)
  5. 5SwellWaves that leave their generation site, disperse, and travel far from origin
  6. 6BreakersWaves eventually become shallow water waves controlled by depth when getting to shore, and speed decreases
  7. 7Spilling BreakersShallow beach slope with steep wave
  8. 8Plunging BreakersShallow to intermediate beach slope has ___ breakers
  9. 9Collapsing BreakerIntermediate to steep beach slope has ___ breakers
  10. 10Surging BreakerSteep beach slope has ____ breakers. Mostly found on rocky coasts.
  11. 11Rip CurrentsCaused by a lot of wave action. After waves break, water surges in and goes back out but traps some water before it breaks, causing the pressure gradient to be parallel to shore
  12. 12Rogue WavesEnormous waves caused by all waves in an area cresting at the same time
  13. 13TsunamisFormed by tectonic movement underwater, usually by earth quake. Water column is displaced and energy moves from bottom to surface.

Informações

Descrição
Marine Physics (Fundamentals of Phsyics) FlashCards sobre Waves, criado por Sunnidae Gallien em 06-12-2022.
Criado por
Sunnidae Gallien · dez 2022
Atualizado
7 dez 2022
Visualizações
2
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