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Morpho exam 1

renske koets Morphodynamics Treinador Interno English 105 cards

Morpho exam 1

Cards in this deck (105)

  1. 1Main hydrodynamic agents1 Waves
    2 Currents
    3 Sea level
  2. 2—
  3. 3Oceanic RidgeDivergent plate boundary
    New oceanic crust is produced
    No sediment layer at surface
  4. 4Abyssal plainFlat area
    sedimentary accumulation
    (remains from living organisms & fines from continents)
  5. 5Seamounts1 km height in abyssal plain
    do not reach surface
    volcanic origin
  6. 6oceanic trenchdeep and steep slope
    created by subduction
    convergent boundary
  7. 7Continental margin include?- Continental Shelf
    - Continental slope
    - Continental rise
  8. 8Active continental marginsubduction trench
    narrow continental shelf
  9. 9Passive continental marginNo subduction
    wide continental shelf with thick accumulation of sediment
  10. 10—inner shelf: waves act on seabed
    middle shelf: transition zone
    outer shelf: not affected by waves    inner shelf: waves act on seabed middle shelf: transition zone outer shelf: not affected by wavesinner shelf: waves act on seabed middle shelf: transition zone outer shelf: not affected by waves
  11. 11sediment (sand or silt?) inner shelf: .... outer shelf: ....inner shelf: sand (rough)
    outer shelf: silt (fine)
  12. 12InterglacialHigh sea levels
  13. 13glaciations - Ica AgeLow sea levels
    sediment reaches continental slope
    Sand/ Gravels deposit that will become relict during next interglacial.
  14. 14sand ripples formed by a. b.a. waves
    b. current (directed to the right)    sand ripples formed by a. b.
  15. 15tidal deltasand deposit at the entrance of lagoons and river mouths
  16. 16rocky reefs are formed by: 1. 2. 3.1. erosion (wave, sea level rise)
    2. Coral reefs: colonies of polyps held together by Calcium.
    3. Calcium precipitation (beach rocks)
  17. 17Antrhopogenic features (human activities)1. Seabed resource exploitation (sand/gravel extraction -> pits)
    2. underwaterstructures for coastal protection (wave breakers)
    3. devices for energy production (wind farms)
    4. navigation safety (channel dredging)
  18. 18A wave transports ...energy
  19. 19Different wave types (from small to large frequency)Gravity waves:
    1. tidal waves
    2. long-period waves
    3. windwaves
  20. 20Wave basewater depth that is reached by orbital motions
    = 1/2 of wavelength (L)    Wave base
  21. 21Significant wave heightHs (m)
    average of the highest (33%) of waves for a given period
  22. 22Maximum wave heightHmax
    maximum value observed for a given period
  23. 23periodT (s)
    Tm: mean period
    Tp: peak period (considering highest waves)
  24. 24Directiondirection from which the waves are coming
    Dm: mean direction
    Dp: peak direction
  25. 25Wind waves- Locally generated by wind
    - short period (and wavelength)
    - Highly variable in shape (due to wind variability)
  26. 26Swell- Generated remotely
    - Large period (>8s) and wavelength
    - weak variability
  27. 27Size of waves depend on:1. wind speed
    2. wind duration
    3. Fetch
  28. 28FetchUnobstruted distance over which the wind blowsFetch
  29. 29Fully developed sea, when: - -- wind blows continously for 3 days
    - maximum wave height is obtained
  30. 30Wave dispersionWaves with different period (or wavelength) travel at different speed.
  31. 31Dispersion equationwave speed (c)
    c = gT / 2pi
    Waves with long wavelength travel faster
  32. 32Wave groupwave group speed (Cg) in deep water
    Cg = Cw/2
    where Cw = individual wave speed
  33. 33wave group out of phase / in phasewave group out of phase / in phase
  34. 34Waves shape entering shallow waterWaves shape entering shallow water
  35. 35Deep water regimed > L/2
    Cinf = gT / 2pi
    cg= cw/2
  36. 36intermediate water regimeC = gT/2pi * tanh (2pi d/ L)
  37. 37Shallow waterCs = sqrt( g d)
    cg = cw
  38. 38Energy of a wave equationEnergy of a wave equation
  39. 39Power of a wave equationP = E Cg
  40. 40Wave refractioncauses energy to concentrate on headlands (erodes them)Wave refraction
  41. 41Wave diffractionWave diffraction
  42. 42spilling wavespilling wave
  43. 43plungingplunging
  44. 44collapsingcollapsing
  45. 45SurgingSurging
  46. 46Spring tide: Neap tide:Spring tide: Large A, full moon
    Neap tide: Low A, lunar quarters
    tidal waves are horizontally!
  47. 47diurnal tide1 tide per day
  48. 48semidiurnal tide2 tides per day
  49. 49mixed tideboth diurnal and semidiurnal ( one is dominant )
  50. 50Storm surgeabnormal rise of water due to a storm
    extreme flooding when coincides with spring tide
  51. 51Coastal protections 1. 2. 3.1. hard structures (seawalls
    2. Soft engineering (use of natural process)
    3. Hybrid methods (mix of 1 and 2)
  52. 52Data in the field can be collected by?- Boats
    - Seabed moorings
    - Buoys
    - Drones
    - Satellites
  53. 53Bathymetry single beam echo-sounder (1m res.)Bathymetry single beam echo-sounder (1m res.)
  54. 54Bathymetry Multi beam echo-sounder (few dm res.)Bathymetry Multi beam echo-sounder (few dm res.)
  55. 55Bathymetry LIDARLight detection and ranging
    very expensive    Bathymetry LIDAR
  56. 56Seabed constitution Side scan sonaracoustic image of sea.
    combined with sediment sampling.    Seabed constitution Side scan sonar
  57. 57Hydrodynamics Wave buoysfollow the movement of ocean surface
    give (Hs, period, etc)
    multi-parametric buoys give aswell current, T, S etc.)
  58. 58Hydrodynamics Pressure sensorsMeasure the pressure
    1 bar (0,1atm) per 1 meter of depth
  59. 59Hydrodynamics Tide Gaugemeasure sea levelHydrodynamics Tide Gauge
  60. 60Hydrodynamics current metersmeasure the current at one location
    (velocity and direction)
    ADCP = acoustic doppler current profiler    Hydrodynamics current meters
  61. 61Hydrodynamics Surface driftersFree floating bouy to monitor:
    S, T and currents
  62. 62Sediment dynamics Turbidity metersMeasure suspended sediment concentration
  63. 63Sediment dynamics Sediment traps: Sediment tracers:Sediment traps:
    to catch sediment
    Sediment tracers: paint sediment    Sediment dynamics Sediment traps: Sediment tracers:
  64. 64Sediment sourcesrivers
    volcanoes
    wind
    erosion
  65. 65bedloadcoarse sediment transport (sand, gravel)
    in river
  66. 66suspended laodfine sediment (silt, mud) tranpsort in river
  67. 67longshore transport (Q)along the coast
    typically between 0,2 and 1 m/s
  68. 68cross-shore transporterosion and transportion perpendicular to coastline
  69. 69sediment transport depend on- Hydrodynamic agents: wave, current, water level
    - water depth
    - grain size
  70. 70—
  71. 71surf zonewhere the waves break
  72. 72swash zonewhere waves run up the beack after breaking
  73. 73What to know about LST formula?-results vary widely
    -large uncertainties
  74. 74cross-shore beach profile difference between summer and wintercross-shore beach profile difference between summer and winter
  75. 75Cross-shore current: undertowcompensates for onshore-directed transport of water by wavesCross-shore current: undertow
  76. 76rip currentrip current
  77. 77Depth of closure (DoC)limit of active coastal zone
    depth at which there is no significant morphological change
  78. 78coastal area- where interactions of sea and land processes occur
    - land and sea, forming a continuum
  79. 79—
  80. 80types of coast based on: - erosion - rock composition - hydrodynamic forcing - morphologytypes of coast based on: - erosion - rock composition - hydrodynamic forcing - morphology
  81. 81Depositional coastlot of sediment
    deltas
    barrier islands
    beaches    Depositional coast
  82. 82erosional coaststeep, irregular
    no beach
    cliffs
    sea stacks    erosional coast
  83. 83submergent coastsea-level rise
    depositional
    large bays
    estuaries
    barrier islands
    lagoons    submergent coast
  84. 84emergent coastsea-level fall
    erosional
    small bay
    rocky coastline    emergent coast
  85. 853 different corral reefs where are they formed?Fringing reefs: along coast lines
    Barrier reefs: offshore, seperated from land by a lagoon
    Atolls: upward coral reef growth on margins of a volcano that has been submerged    3 different corral reefs where are they formed?
  86. 86Rocky reefsuplift (volcanic activity / tectonics / melting of glacial ice)
    form where wave action had no time to erode    Rocky reefs
  87. 87—
  88. 88wave erosion notchwave erosion notch
  89. 891 2 3cave arch stack1 2 3
  90. 903 major theories formation of Barier island1. Dune drowning
    2. Spit accretion
    3. Shoal emergence
  91. 91flood and ebb deltaflood and ebb delta
  92. 92jettiesstop LST
    decrease bypass    jetties
  93. 93Tidal prismvolume of water entering/leaving lagoon during flood or eb
  94. 943 forcings influencing a Delta1. sediment input (river dominated)
    2. wave energy (wave dominated)
    3. tidal energy (tide dominated)    3 forcings influencing a Delta
  95. 95upper and lower limitupper: vegetation line
    lower: depth of closure
  96. 96—
  97. 97beach cuspsbeach cusps
  98. 98Relative tidal range (RTR)RTR = MSR/ Hb
    Hb = waveheight at breaking
    MSR = mean springtidal range
    RTR >= 15. shoaling processes dominate and swash and surf are unimportant
  99. 99infragravity wavessurf bea: 2-3 mininfragravity waves
  100. 100wave setupsea level elevation between breaking zone and beach
    η ~ 0.2 x Hs    wave setup
  101. 101run upuprush limit of the water level
    Run up = setup + swash    run up
  102. 102overwashcoastal flooding produced by waves overtopping the sand dunes
  103. 103washoversediment deposit by overwash
  104. 104dissipative and reflective beachdissipative and reflective beach
  105. 105sediment budgetquantification of sediment volumes enetering and exiting a region
    Accretion V Erosion    sediment budget

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Treinador Interno Morphodynamics Flashcards on Morpho exam 1, created by renske koets on 08/11/2022.
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renske koets
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