Flashcards
Waves
Cards in this deck (13)
- 1WaveTransfers a disturbance from one point of a material to another
- Energy is transported through the water without transferring the water itself - 2Shallow Water waves- speed has no connection to the formula
- controlled by water depth - 3Energy FluxAmount of energy x speed of energy
- 4Wind Size Dependencies- Wind Speed
- Duration
- Fetch
( and depth) - 5SwellWaves that leave their generation site, disperse, and travel far from origin
- 6BreakersWaves eventually become shallow water waves controlled by depth when getting to shore, and speed decreases
- 7Spilling BreakersShallow beach slope with steep wave
- 8Plunging BreakersShallow to intermediate beach slope has ___ breakers
- 9Collapsing BreakerIntermediate to steep beach slope has ___ breakers
- 10Surging BreakerSteep beach slope has ____ breakers. Mostly found on rocky coasts.
- 11Rip CurrentsCaused by a lot of wave action. After waves break, water surges in and goes back out but traps some water before it breaks, causing the pressure gradient to be parallel to shore
- 12Rogue WavesEnormous waves caused by all waves in an area cresting at the same time
- 13TsunamisFormed by tectonic movement underwater, usually by earth quake. Water column is displaced and energy moves from bottom to surface.
Information
- Description
- Marine Physics (Fundamentals of Phsyics) Flashcards on Waves, created by Sunnidae Gallien on 06/12/2022.
- Created by
- Sunnidae Gallien · Dec 2022
- Updated
- Dec 7, 2022
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