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Flashcards

Oceanography chapter 9 waves

Ashleigh McDevitt Biology English 65 cards

Oceanography chapter 9 waves

Cards in this deck (65)

  1. 1What are disturbances caused by movement of energy from a source through a medium called? (photo on slide 3)Waves
  2. 2What do waves do? (photo on slide 3)transmit energy
  3. 3What do waves not do? (photo on slide 3)They do not transmit water mass across the ocean’s surface
  4. 4Energy is transferred from water particle to water particle in (photo on slide 4)orbits
  5. 5what type of wave includes particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes? (photo on slide 4)Orbital waves
  6. 6Where do Orbital waves occur? (photo on slide 4)- boundary between two fluid media, air & water
    - between layers of water of different densities
  7. 7What type of wave involves movement of the waveform forward? (photo on slide 4)Progressive wave
  8. 8What is the highest part of the wave above the average water level called?Wave crestWhat is the highest part of the wave above the average water level called?
  9. 9What is the valley between wave crests below the average water level called?Wave troughWhat is the valley between wave crests below the average water level called?
  10. 10What is the vertical distance between a wave crest and the adjacent trough called?Wave heightWhat is the vertical distance between a wave crest and the adjacent trough called?
  11. 11What is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs called?Wave lengthWhat is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs called?
  12. 12What is the time it takes for a wave to move a distance of one wavelength called?Wave periodWhat is the time it takes for a wave to move a distance of one wavelength called?
  13. 13What is the number of waves passing a fixed point per second called?Wave frequencyWhat is the number of waves passing a fixed point per second called?
  14. 14What are waves classifyed by? (photo on slide 6)- disturbing force
    - restoring force
    - wavelength
  15. 15What creates waves? (photo on slide 6)disturbing force
  16. 16What tries to flatten waves? (photo on slide 6)restoring force
  17. 17Disturbing force waves are caused by what types of energy?- wind
    - storm surge
    - sudden change in atmospheric pressure
    - landslides
    - volcanic euruptions
    - earthquakes
  18. 18What causes tides?gravitational forces from Earth, moon, & sun, combined with the Earth’s rotation
  19. 19What do Free waves do and what is an example of them?Formed & propagates across the sea surface without further influence from the force.
    Example: Tsunami
  20. 20What maintains forced waves and an example of it?Maintained by the disturbing force.
    Example: tides
  21. 21Definition of restoring force waves, and what it does.- Definition: dominant force that returns the water surface to flatness
    - Often overcompensates & causes oscillation
  22. 22What do gravity waves do?pulls the crests downward, inertia
    causes the crests to overshoot and become troughs
  23. 23What does wavelength do?Indicates a type of wave based on the typical length
  24. 24Look over table on slide 9look over table on slide 9
  25. 25What does wavelength determine for the orbits of water? (photo on slide 10)the size
  26. 26What does water depth determine for the orbits? (photo on slide 10)the shape
  27. 27Waves moving through water deeper than half of their wavelength. (photo on slide 10)Deep-water waves
  28. 28What is involved in deep-water waves? (photo on slide 10)- They only have capillary and wind waves.
    - Have round orbits
  29. 29Waves in water shallower than 1/20 of their original wavelength. (photo on slide 10)Shallow-water waves
  30. 30Shallow-water waves have what type of orbits? (photo on slide 10)Flattened orbits
  31. 31Look over table on slide 11look over table on slide 11
  32. 32Form as wind friction stretches the water surface & as surface tension tries to restore it to smoothness (photo on slide 12, 13)Capillary waves
  33. 33Capillary waves are always present where? (photo on slide 12, 13)in the ocean
  34. 34Gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water (photo on slide 12, 13)Wind waves
  35. 35How high are wind waves? (photo on slide 12, 13)~3 meters high
  36. 36What is the wavelength of wind waves? (photo on slide 12, 13)60-150 meters wavelength
  37. 37Where are wind waves common? (photo on slide 12, 13)Common in open ocean
  38. 38Where do wind waves grow from? (photo on slide 12, 13)capillary waves
  39. 39What is the maximum wind wave height to wavelength ratio? (photo on slide 12, 13)Have a maximum: 1:7 ration of wave height to wavelength
  40. 40What is wave strength determined by?wave speed
  41. 41What must happen for energy transfer to continue for wave strength?Wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
  42. 42What is wind duration?time the wind blows
  43. 43Winds that blow for a short time will what?not generate large waves
  44. 44How long must a strong wind flow continuously to have large waves develop?2 days
  45. 45Uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change in direction (photo on slide 15)Fetch
  46. 46Maximum wave size possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration & fetch (photo on slide 15)Fully developed sea
  47. 47What has the greatest potential for large waves because of continous winds called? (photo on slide 16)West Wind Drift
  48. 48What is the measurment of the West Wind Drift?~30 meters
  49. 49What happens when waves meet?they interfere with one another
  50. 50What are the two types of wave interference?- Destructive interference
    - Constructive interference
  51. 51What is destructive interfrence?two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
  52. 52What is constructive interference?addititve interference that results in waves larger than the original waves
  53. 53These freak waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximumRogue waves
  54. 54How a wave train breaks against the shoreHow a wave train breaks against the shore
  55. 55What type of wave breaks violently against the shore? (photo on slide 21)plunging waves
  56. 56What do plunging waves leave between the crest and foot of the wave? (photo on slide 21)they leave air-filled tube or channel
  57. 57Plunging waves are formend when? (photo on slide 21)waves approach shore over a steeply sloped bottom
  58. 58A tsunami is also known as aharbor wave
  59. 59What produces a tusnami? (photo on slide 22)water displacement from earthquakes, landslides, volcanoes, asteroid impacts, ice bergs falling from glaciers
  60. 60What is different from ordinary waves and a tsunami? (photo on slide 22)They are longer and faster
  61. 61What type of waves are tsunamis? (photo on slide 22)Shallow-water waves
  62. 62How long can tsunami wavelengths be? (photo on slide 22)up to 150 miles
  63. 63How far can tsunamis travel? (photo on slide 22)Travel at over 435mi/h
  64. 64How high are tsunamis in the open ocean? (photo on slide 22)Not very high in open ocean ~1m
  65. 65What happens to tsunamis as they get closer to shore? (photo on slide 22)they get bigger

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Biology Flashcards on Oceanography chapter 9 waves, created by Ashleigh McDevitt on 17/10/2024.
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